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Day 105
Time: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 19:34:06 -0400
Location: Bartlett Inn Crawford's Notch NH Mile 1846.2 of Appalachian Trail
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app
I stealth camped last night a little north of the Garfield Ridge Campsite. Sometimes the Guthook App lists stealth sites but usually you have to read the comments other hikers leave about streams, road crossings, etc. They'll say something like water flowing well, dry, or space for 2 tents about .2 NoBo.
I knew I had 28 miles to do in 2 days in order to meet Helen at Crawford's Notch and Hwy 302. Getting on the trail at noon only gave me about 8 hours of daylight and I only made it 11 miles. Hard miles.
I enjoy the relaxing mornings with Helen but that means I don't get on the trail until later. I hate to be rushed...on the front end, on the back end, or in the middle. I want to have my cake and eat it too. Again and again cloning and/or time travel seem to be the only viable solutions I can come up with for most of my problems.
I was on the trail today by 6:30. It was overcast and misty. Thankfully the rocks weren't too slippery. Most of the time the footing holds... until it doesn't. As soon as you take the footing for granted you fall. It's mentally exhausting.
I had gone down a steep treachorous wet stream bed the night before and was glad not to have to face that first thing in the morning with stiff cold joints.
Cell service was spotty but Helen and I got a couple of emails to go through. I told her I was shooting for Zealand Hut 9 miles away about 1:00. She was planning on meeting me. There are parking lots where people can drive to or take AMC shuttles and then hike to the AMC huts. Some huts are harder to reach than others. Helen had called AMC and they said Zealand was a reasonably easy 3 miles.
Two hikers passed me on the way to Galehead Hut in the morning. It was comforting to see there were at least two other crazy people. I got to Galehead about 8. The hikers who passed me, Backpack Jack and Last Boy Scout, were there. Dodger Dog, Denali, and some others also arrived. Long Legs had done a work for stay and said Moon and Honey Bun had also but they had left earlier.
We were all concerned about the weather and worried about the thunderstorms that were forecasted.
I had a couple cups of hot coffee and a bunch of chocolate chip pancakes.
Last Boy Scout, Backpack Jack, and I decided to push on to Zealand Hut. There was some exposed ridgeline we were anxious to get over before any thunderstorms.
It was wet and foggy but the bad weather never materialized. I made it to Zealand Hut a little after noon. It was hopping with guests arriving and hanging out. Backpack Jack was there cleaning dishes for some food. I had more coffee and a bunch of yummy baked goods.
Helen are arrived a little after 1:00 and introduced me to two older brothers and their dog Eddie.
We hung out some and rested and then walked down the trail until the trails split. I still had 8 miles to Crawford Notch and was tired. Thankfully the next few miles were on level trail with nice crushed gravel and through a beautiful valley. Then the trail turned to wet bog for a few miles. It was muddy but level. Then the descent to the notch started. My knees were really aching and had been getting worse for several days from the tough descents.
Helen wasn't at the pickup yet but there was some trail magic. I had a cold Sprite and a brownie while I waited.
We went to the Bartlett Inn where I got cleaned up and started icing my knees. Helen and I got caught up while I drank some beer and ate the Italian Sub she got from Bart's Deli nearby. I was so thankful to have made it and not be spending the night in the woods again while Helen waited.
Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app
Day 106
Time: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 20:10:10 -0400
Location: Bartlett Inn Hart's Location NH Mile 1846.2 of Appalachian Trail
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
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I took a zero day today at the Bartlett Inn in Hart's Location NH. My knees needed a break and Helen and I needed to finalize her departure plans. Arrival planning is a lot more fun than departure planning.
The Bartlett Inn is fairly close to the trail, easier than going to North Conway. There are a number of ski areas nearby and the Story Land Amusement Park seems to be a big draw, as well as Crawford Notch State Park, Mount Washington and the White Mountains, and Sacco River. Lots of hiking and camping.
The Bartlett is nice and laid back. There are some cons to that also in terms of the staffs attention to coffee and breakfast. It wasn't a well oiled machine but it worked out. We met some nice families with young kids that reminded us of our babies.
I iced my knees and laid in bed most of the day. We looked at AMC hut availability. Helen was worried about leaving me before I made it through the White Mountains, especially with my aching knees. I was worried too.
It turned out that if I waited until Sunday to start hiking again, I could book a hut each of the next 5 nights. The huts are less than 10 miles apart and include dinner and breakfast so I wouldn't have to carry much food. I booked the huts and we both felt better. Now we have a couple more days of relaxed honey time before Helen heads back home and I get back on the trail.
Helen got a little stir crazy laying around all day. In the evening we went to Bart's Deli and then ate dinner at Cabin Fever. I was happy with my steak and scallops but Helen was regretting her fried haddock and french fries.
We talked about going to the pool but didn't feel like like hassling with it after dinner. Instead we watched the first episode of Stranger Things Season 3 on Netflix and both struggled to stay awake.
Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
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Day 107
Time: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 21:37:12 -0400
Location: Notchland Inn Hart's Location NH Mile 1846.2 of Appalachian Trail
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
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Helen and I spent the night at the Bartlett Inn in Hart's Location NH last night. It was Helen's 3rd night there and my second.
I woke up early and talked with an older guy from Rhode Island over coffee. He's here with his extended family. His son's family from Vermont and his Daughters family from California. They spend a week at the beach in Rhode Island every year and this year year they extended the vacation to the mountains. They had come to the area with their kids to ski but never in the summer. They all went to Story Land and he rode a ride with his grown kids and told them, "See, I told you we would go to Story Land one day."
We talked to the young families at breakfast and asked if they had fun at Story Land. They were cute.
We drove to the Mt Washington Cog Railway where we had tickets for the 11:30 train up the mountain.
The train was fun. The weather turned quickly. Everyone was putting on jackets. It was very foggy.
We saw Dodger Dog and several other thru hikers at the summit cafe...and lots of muggles. I saw a number of other thru hikers in the hiker registry including Jukebox and Tennessee. I'm falling behind.
We walked around the summit looking at the visitor center, Tip Top House, and Weather Observatory. Helen was worried about me because nof the fog and lack of visibility. It was a neat experience.
On the way down the mountain there were two little girls sitting behind us. They were really cute and singing songs.
We drove to the historic Mount Washington Hotel, a throwback to the turn of the century when there were a string of elaborate hotels for the rich and famous. There's a lot history about nearby Bretton Woods and the historic financial and economic meetings that took place.
We stopped by the AMC Highlands Center, picked up some supplies, and had a sandwich. Didn't see any thru hikers but plenty of day hiker muggles.
We checked into the Notchland Inn nearby. Helen did some laps around the property while I lounged in the hammock and did some logistics.
We had a nice but long slow dinner at the inn and fell fast asleep.
Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app
Day 108
Time: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 16:21:28 -0400
Location: Notchland Inn Hart's Location NH Mile 1756.1 of Appalachian Trail
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
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Helen and I spent the night at the Notchland Inn in Hart's Location NH. It didn't seem that long since we had last stuffed our bellies, but it was time to eat again.
We had another nice long meal in the dining room. We met Bear and Mia the owner's dogs and chatted with other guests. I joked with Helen that she should call her mom and tell her that now she knows how her mother feels. Her mother always says how all she does at her assisted living is sit around and wait for the meals.
I like to joke about Helen's family but she says she's going to start limiting me to a few family related jokes/observations a day. I don't know what I'll do. Thankfully there are no limits on the trail. What else is there to do to pass the time that's so fun?
I laid around and did some logistics and then we drove to Pinkham's Notch, the next notch east in the White Mountains. We went to the visitor center and saw Dodger Dog, Backpack Jack, and crew. They had made it over the mountains that I still have to do. She said they had planned to go farther each day but ended up going hut to hut doing work for stay. I dropped some food and supplies at the lodge for when I arrive in a few days.
The temperature today is 95 degrees. There were cars lined up all along the Saco river with people trying to cool off.
There were lots of motels, resorts, and inns along the way. It was a pretty drive. We stopped at Bart's Deli for some cold Long Trail IPA on the way back to the Notchland Inn.
We had some snacks and I drank the beer. Helen went on a long walk before dinner.
The dinner was long and drawn out again, but delicious. Everything we had at the inn was perfectly executed. We had the filet and the duck tonight. The pork and the chicken last night.
After dinner we went on a walk and then watched another episode of Stranger Things.
Tonight is our last night. Helen is heading back home tomorrow and I'm heading up into the mountains and over the Presidentials and into Maine.
Love you ❤️ Miss you
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app
Day 109
Time: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 19:04:23 -0400
Location: Mizpah Spring Hut Mile 1853 of Appalachian Trail
Last night Helen and I spent our second night at the Notchland Inn in Hart's Location NH. We had another delicious breakfast and then packed up and drove back to the Hwy 302 trail head.
There were some tears as we said our goodbyes. It was so nice having her here the past couple weeks. Having her share the thru hike experience with me has been special. We've had so many great experiences and learned a lot.
It's hard when Helen leaves. Everything reminds me of the shared experiences we've had and it's hard knowing she's not waiting for me at the trail head at the end of the day.
It was another tough White Mountain climb up Mt Webster and Mt Jackson. The clouds were really moving and looking dark as I got to the ridge line. The wind was blowing hard and I got pelted with rain at the summit of My Jackson. There were beautiful views, but it's hard to relax when you're worried about being caught in bad weather.
It was only a little over 6 miles to the Mizpah Hut where I had a reservation for tonight. I got there about 3 and met Topo, Peep Show, and Ponce De Leon. They've also have hut reservations for the next several nights like I do. I had some coffee and some oatmeal.
Won't Get Up came in with a little older guy I had passed. I was worried about him because he was planning to go to Lake of the Clouds hut. He decided to stay at Mizpah instead.
I haven't seen Won't Get Up since the Yellow Deli in Rutland VT. She's a hoot. She said she and Peach got Lyme and are on a 3 week dose of Doxy antibiotics. It took her a few days to feel better. She said she has to stay out of the sun. She's been doing work for stay at the huts and is doing one here tonight. We talked about other hikers we've been around.
There are about 25 other hikers here. We met a young girl SoBo thru hiker and shared some trail info with each other.
We're having stuffed shells, Boreal salad, and focaccia bread for dinner. Only 4.7 miles to Lake of the Clouds hut tomorrow.
Met several other thru hikers including a couple SoBos. We had fun swapping stories.
Papa John and Boot were here at lunch.
Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app
Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app
Day 110
Time: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 11:37:14 -0400
Location: Lakes of the Clouds Hut mile 1857.7 (Northbound) of the Appalachian Trail
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
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Spent last night at Mizpah AMC Hut. There were about 10 thru hikers doing work for stay and several others like me who were paying guests. The work for stay hikers don't have to work too much but they have to sleep on the floor in the dining room and can't go to sleep before 9:30 and have to be up by 6. They usual get plenty to eat but have to wait until the paying guests have eaten.
Each hut is staffed by 4-6 young college age kids. They try to make it fun and do skits before the meals. The meals are surprisingly good and organized. They're also quick which is nice after the long drawn out meals at the Notchland Inn.
I was up by 5 and just kind of milling around waiting. Booking the next several huts gives me relatively easy days, but the waiting around is hard. We had oatmeal, eggs, sausage, and coffee cake.
I chatted with the other thru hikers and some of the guests and was on the trail by 8. Some people had already left and most were getting ready to leave. Seventy, a thru hiker from Colorado, is trying to finish in 70 days. He left early.
The weather is overcast with chance of thunderstorms later. Rain is expected overnight and then clearing the next few days. Hopefully the waiting will pay off with good weather.
I had a relatively easy 4.7 miles rocky miles to Lakes of the Clouds hut. There were plenty of other hikers around. Sometimes the clouds cleared and gave beautiful views. Lakes of the Clouds is the hut where Evan, of Evans Backpacking YouTube channel, hiked for 22 of 24 hours and caught his friends Liz and Luke in the morning.
I met Why Not and her partner. They're from Florida and started in February. They're staying in the Dungeon cellar below the hut for $10. She said Pork Chop is off the trail but is not being specific as to why. Several thru hikers stopped here briefly and then hiked on to Mt Washington and into Madison Spring Hut.
It drizzled off and on most of the day and was chilly. The hut is filled with people and we're all wearing jackets and coats to stay warm. Most are talking and playing games in the dining room.
I'm bored. Lots of waiting. Too many people.
Dinner was pretty tasty. I ate with the older section hiker from Kentucky and an extended family with a few kids. They were all at Mizpah Hut last night.
Skies clearing and made for a beautiful sunset with fluffy clouds filling the valleys below.
Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app
Day 111
Time: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 16:26:57 -0400
Location: Madison Sprint Hut mile 1864.8 (Northbound) of the Appalachian Trail
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app
I spent last night at the Lakes of the Clouds Hut. The hut has 90 bunks and it seemed like they were all full. Lots of people. I went to bed about 8:30 to escape the noise in the dining room. The weather cleared last night and we had a pretty sunset with fluffy clouds.
I was up early drinking coffee in the morning. Breakfast starts around 7. There's a couple skits from the hut crop with each meal. Oatmeal, pancakes, eggs, and bacon for breakfast.
It rained overnight and was still drizzling in the morning. The forecast called for clearing and a nice day so people weren't in a hurry. I talked to Helen. She had made it back home late last night.
I left about 8:30 and was at the Mount Washington summit in less than an hour. No train had arrived so there weren't many people.
Why Not, Handstand, Topo, Peep Show, Ponce de Leon, Dirt Doctor, and Spacemaker were all hanging out in the hiker room downstairs.
The train arrived with people and we got some food in the summit cafe. Most of us were going to the Madison Spring Hut about 6 miles away.
The weather improved and gave us some nice views. It was cool with very little wind. It was nice not to sweat for a change. The hut to hut plan paid off today. The trail was rocky and tough on exposed ridges. I was glad to be doing the section with uncharacteristically mild winds and clear views.
The Madison Spring Hut is much smaller than Lakes of the Clouds and there aren't many people here right now.
The hut filled up fast as dinner time approached and there was a full house for dinner. We had cous cous salad, enchiladas, vegetable medley, and spice cake. A number of people from Lakes of the Clouds are here as well as some who hiked up southbound from Pinkham Notch. We're dreading the steep downhill to Pinkham Notch tomorrow, but the weather will be nice.
Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=
Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app
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