Saturday, July 13, 2019

2019 AT Thru Hike: Week 13 - Manchester Center VT to Lyme NH

It's week 13 of my Appalachian Trail thru hike. Helen's visiting again and supporting me as I get ready to enter the White Mountains of New Hampshire.













































































































Day 91
Time: Wed, 3 Jul 2019 19:29:58 -0400

Location: Little Rock Pond Shelter Mile 1672.7 of Appalachian Trail

Stayed last night at the Bromley Shelter just north of Manchester Center VT. I was the only one in the shelter. Patrick/Napoleon Dynamite was tenting nearby. He's hiking the Long Trail.

I hiked 8 miles to the Peru Peak Shelter. There was a nice climb up Bromley Mountain in the morning. The path walked up a field of wildflowers. There were beautiful views at the top of the mountain from the Bromley Ski Resort.

I spooked a medium size bear as I rounded a bend and it high tailed it up into the brush.

The trail was really nice going through dense hemlocks. It smells like Christmas trees. The mud is drying out some and there's not as much at higher elevations.

I chatted with Triceratops and Old Spice and Patrick at the Lost Pond Shelter. We talked about how bad the gnats and mosquitos are. There was also a lady hiking with her German Shepherd. The dog is very protective and always stays uncomfortably on my hip as she escorts me whenever I get near her owner.

I saw Cliffhanger and Dodger Dog. They're trying to make it to Killington Peak tomorrow night to see fireworks.

I hiked 18 miles today to the Little Rock Pond Shelter. Dodger Dog stopped by for a snack. She's from LA and was hiking with the Wander Women earlier. She's also hiked the PCT.

It's a beautiful setting with the Green Mountains surrounding the lake. Raven, Patrick, Old Spice, and Triceratops are here tonight.

Good luck to Derek and Madison running the Peachtree Road Race tomorrow.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=43.39883%2C-72.95467

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Day 92
Time: Thu, 4 Jul 2019 22:02:32 -0400

Location: Yellow Deli Hostel Rutland VT  Mile 1685.6 of Appalachian Trail

Stayed last night at the Little Rock Pond Shelter with Raven, Old Spice, Triceratops, and Patrick.

It's July 4th today. Derek and Madison ran the Peachtree Road and Helen and Adam went to watch. Last night they all went out to dinner and watched the Norcross fireworks.

I hiked 6 miles to the VT 140 road crossing and quickly got a hitch into the town of Wallingford from a nice young guy from Connecticut who comes up this way and into the White Mountains to hike. I saw Ax and Blacksmith who were hiking all the way to Killington Peak hoping for a good view of fireworks.

Raven and I had a plan to eat breakfast at the Cumberland Farms gas station and then have lunch at Sal's Pizza.

Cumberland Farms was nice and has plenty of things to eat and drink. Raven showed up later with another thru hiker. 

Wallingford is a cute little town and there were flags lining the street. It was a nice festive feeling on the holiday. I walked down Maine St for awhile while we waited for Sal's to open at noon. Eventually Raven and the other hiker showed up. The other guy started hitching a ride south where he planned to meet up with some trail family.

It turned out that Sal's was closed for the holiday so we walked back to Cumberland Farms and ate some pizza there.

We eventually walked back to Sal's and started hitching a ride back to the trail. It took at least half an hour. Traffic was sparse on the holiday. As a hitchhiker you start sizing up cars and drivers as they pass. Pickup trucks are the best. The dirtier the better. I was trashing Subaru drivers as "fake" outdoorsy people. 

While we were waiting several trucks carrying demolition derby cars passed and Raven became interested in where the derby was. A nice little semi-senile lady walked over from a nearby building and gave us a little pot pie. Raven took it and carried it but doesn't think he'll chance eating it.

Eventually 3 kids in a Subaru Impreza going the other way turned around and picked us up. The guy that picked me up in the morning also drove an Impreza.

We had a big climb and saw Magnolia, Free, and crew along with the NJ father and daughter at the top enjoying the view.

Raven was making plans to go into Rutland and find the demolition derby. I was planning to walk to Loretta's deli and camp there for breakfast tomorrow.

We made are way down the mountain to a pretty gorge with a river. There were lots of people enjoying the area.

We reached a nearby parking area on VT Hwy 103. A family came up from the river and asked about us. Raven said he was going to Rutland and said something about the demolition derby. They enthusiastically said they were headed there right now and that it's a lot of fun.

A man in the parking lot gave us some Gatorade and a lady offered us a ride into Rutland. It seemed too easy so I went along. She had room for three and Free went with us.

There's a well known hiker hostel in town called The Yellow Deli where we planned to stay. The lady was super nice and said she loves the Yellow Deli and goes there all the time. It's run by a group called The 12 Tribes. They have another Hostel/Farm/Store in Virginia. They're a cult but really nice and don't push their agenda.

Raven and I took a shower and enjoyed all the nice amenities. It's a neat place with a fun laid back vibe. I also did laundry. 

We walked about a mile to the fairgrounds to see the derby. We each got a big plate of fried dough and found a seat in the grandstand. We saw the family that told us about the derby and waived.

It was fun and a nice Americana experience on the 4th. We left before the fireworks and walked back to the Yellow Deli where we both had some delicious salads to dilute the effects of the junk we had been eating.

Helen is leaving tomorrow to come and visit again. I called and talked to her to get caught up on everything at home and wish her safe travels.

Love you ❤️Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=43.60656%2C-72.97894

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Day 93
Time: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 20:32:19 -0400

Location: Churchhill Scott Shelter Mile 1701.1 of Appalachian Trail

Spent last night at the Yellow Deli after going to the demolition derby at the fairgrounds.

The Yellow Deli gives hikers a free breakfast. It was delicious. They serve Matte rather than coffee. I liked it. They say the effect is much more gradual than caffeine.

We all sat together and talked with the Yellow Deli people. They were really nice and don't push their agenda in any way. I met Trella, Mosey, Rooster, and Wakes Too Late. Raven, Magnolia, and Finnish Line were there.

We got a shuttle back to the trail head from a local trail angel. Really nice lady.

We had a big climb up and over Mount Killington. I met Trail Chef and Mayor in the way up and saw 3D.

I took a steep side trail up to the Killington Ski Resort. All the way up the mountain I envisioned all my friends being at the restaurant at the top. Instead the restaurant was closed for a wedding. I hung out some and watched the mountain bikers getting off the gondola and ride down the mountain. It seems like it happens often on the trail that you have high expectations that don't pan out and other times you have low expectations and things turn out unexpectedly great.

I stopped by the Cooper Lodge shelter at the top and got some water. Trail Chef stopped also.

I hiked another 5 miles down the other side of Killington to the Churchill Scott Shelter. Old Spice, Triceratops, and Patrick were there along with several others. A classmate of Bookbag is here also with his mom. He's hiking the Long Trail.

Helen got a late start but is on her way up to see me. Yippee!

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=43.64514%2C-72.85328

Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app

Day 94
Time: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 21:34:58 -0400

Location: Inn At The Long Trail Mile 1704.9 of Appalachian Trail

Spent last night at the Churchill Scott Shelter near Killington VT. Patrick, Triceratops and Old Spice were there. Triceratops and Old Spice are getting a hotel in Killington to celebrate Old Spice's birthday. They were living in NYC and quit their jobs and put their stuff I'm storage. After the hike they're going to head out west and look for a place to live. They talked with an older couple at the shelter about Olympic National Park. It brought back memories of our trip out there.

I hiked 4 miles to the Sheburne Pass Trail and took it down to the Inn At The Long Trail for breakfast. The Inn was really cute with a rustic ski lodge feel. It gave me that hygge feeling.

Top Knot and Buzz, the father/daughter from NJ were there eating with Floss and Swiss Miss. I had a big plate of blueberry pancakes, southwest omelette, bacon, and potatoes. Delicious.

Floss is a high school Spanish teacher from Fort Worth Tx and Swiss Miss is from Wisconsin and finishing up a graduate degree. Floss thru hiked in 2017 and this is his 3rd year on the trail. He's just doing a northern section this year. Swiss Miss started a southbound thru hike last year and hurt her leg right away. She came back this year and started at Springer in early March.

We all sat around the dining room and chatted until they kicked us out. There was also a nice older couple and the guy was a former thru hiker and joined in.

We moved to the lobby and continued talking. The older guy and his wife come to the Inn often and stay for a couple months. We talked about our lives and our hikes.

Helen texted and said she would be arriving in the evening so I decided to go ahead and get a room.

Buzz's wife arrived and we all went to the Long Trail Brewery where we did a self guided tour and then got something to eat. Buzz picked up the tab. Very nice people. 

Swiss Miss and Floss had planned to hike out but storms were expected so they stayed another night.

Magnolia, Free, Seabass, Pantry and a number of other hikers came through to visit and/or stay.

Helen got here about 7 pm. We got settled and then walked around. We saw Floss and Swiss Miss and chatted. We looked in on the live Irish music playing at the pub and enjoyed the nice evening.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=43.66401%2C-72.83308

Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app

Day 95
Time: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 06:57:12 -0400

Location: Inn At Long Trail Mile 1704.9 of Appalachian Trail

Helen and I stayed at the Inn At Long Trail last night. We hung out with Buzz and Mrs Buzz and their daughter Top Knot in the lobby while we waited for breakfast time.

We all sat together at breakfast along with Floss, Swiss Miss, and Hawkbait. The breakfast is delicious and the ambiance of the place is very hygge. Ron/Shakedown and his wife Cynthia sat nearby and Ron shared in the conversation. It was a nice morning.

We said goodbye to everyone and then went back to the room and I assimilated all the stuff I asked Helen to bring while Helen put her feet up and rested after her long drive from Atlanta.

We had lunch in the restaurant downstairs. It's got an Irish theme and serves Guinness draft with shamrocks and other designs in the foam heads. I  had the hearty Irish stew with the soda bread again. We got a couple desserts and coffee.

We drove about 4 miles to Kent Pond near Gifford Woods State Park and walked to the waterfall nearby. I walked back towards the Inn. Helen drove back to the Inn and walked towards me. We met in between and then hiked Deerleap, a big rock overlooking the valley and the Pico Mountain Ski Area. It was a beautiful evening.

We went to dinner at the pub and talked with Ron and Cynthia. She can't hear very well so he's eager for conversation. Very nice people. They travel around on motorcycle and live a pretty nomadic life but have favorite areas like here and Virginia where they spend a lot of time. Turns out he graduated from MIT with a degree in theoretical math and did software also. He's retired a few times and has enough to live the free nomadic life he desires.

The dinner was nice and Owen the bartender did a great job. Tortoise was there and I introduced him to Helen. It was a really nice evening.

Ron went back to his room and brought us a bag of oranges he wants us to put out for hikers before they climb the big hill after the falls.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=43.66401%2C-72.83309

Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app

Day 96
Time: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 21:58:34 -0400

Location: Norwich Inn Mile 1748.3 of Appalachian Trail

Last night Helen and I stayed at the Inn at Long Trail. We made several trips to the pre breakfast coffee station.

At breakfast we sat next to the windows and enjoyed the view of the flowers and rocks leading up the mountain. The food and service were excellent again. 

We saw Tortoise at breakfast and Ron and Cynthia in the lobby before checking out.

On the way back to the trail we saw Lady Dundee outside the Killington Deli. We stopped and visited and went in to look around the deli. So many good things. I just got a big donut.

We dropped Lady Dundee at the Back Country Outfitter and then drove to the trailhead at River Road where I last got off. We put out the oranges Ron had given us for hikers heading up the big incline.

I was glad to be slackpacking up those inclines. I met a southbound father and son. We shared some information about the trail ahead. I saw the father and son from Douglasville GA, Gopher and Peach. They've been at the Yellow Deli in Rutland for 4 days and have been slackpacking. I met Denali and Cushy who were hiking with Gopher. I passed Sparky. He was feigning annoyance at all the slackpacking. It was a beautiful day for hiking.

I went 18 miles to VT Hwy 12 where Helen was waiting. She had been giving out trail magic to hikers as they passed. She met Jukebox and Tennessee and Mosey and a few others I didn't know. She said she was the bearer of bad news to several hikers that the nearby farm stand was closed.

We drove by to look at the cute farm stand and saw Tennessee and Jukebox setup at a house nearby that allows hikers to camp.

Helen drove me around and showed me all the cute houses and covered bridges she visited in nearby Woodstock. It's the quintessential New England town with a beautiful old town and the cutest houses.

We drove to the Norwich Inn where we're staying for the next couple days. We got cleaned up and settled and then had dinner in the pub at the Inn.

Papa John texted and said he was staying at the Yellow Deli and wanted to know where I was.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=43.71503%2C-72.30917

Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app

Day 97
Time: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 21:31:30 -0400

Location: Norwich Inn Mile 1748.3 of Appalachian Trail

Helen and I stayed at the Norwich Inn in Norwich VT last night. We had coffee on the porch while we waited for breakfast.

The ambiance is nice and feels like a New England Inn. We really like how Vermont is so green. There are no billboards and things are quiet. The loud cars and motorcycles are somewhere else.

Gopher and Peach were taking a break at the creek when we arrived at the trail. I introduced them and Helen gave them some Gatorade and oranges. We talked about their stay at the Yellow Deli and how they were going to Hanover to stay with their son/brother.

Walden and Yellow Jacket arrived and Helen got them some goodies also.

It was almost 90 today but not terribly humid. The trail had lots of steep ups and downs but wound through nice forests with mostly soft trail padded with pine needles. There were also a number of pasture crossings with lots of pretty wildflowers.

Walden and I stopped at the Back Porch, a farmhouse near a road crossing owned by a couple of 2016 thru hikers. I had a ginger ale and a big homemade ice cream sandwich. There was a middle-aged couple there who were retired military. They told us about their world travels. Walden mentioned maybe wanting to move to South America.

In West Hanover the trail goes over a nice river. Some people jumped off the bridge into the clear cool water. There were a lot of people floating on inner tubes.

Helen was driving by on her way to pick me up and saw Tennessee, Jukebox, Sparky, Yellow Jacket, and Walden. I was just reaching the bridge.

We all walked over to a house next to the river where a nice couple gives out goodies and let's hikers camp or stay in their barn.

Helen and I had a nice drive back to the Norwich Inn. I ate the sandwich Helen bought from Dan and Whit's, the cute General Store next to the Inn.

We got cleaned up and then got some food from Dan and Whit's and ate it on the porch of the Inn while we watched all comings and goings on Main Street in front of the Inn. Lots of people riding bikes and enjoying the pleasant evening. 

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=43.71503%2C-72.30916

Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app

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