2019 AT Thru Hike: Week 1 - Damascus to Atkins VA

Week 1 on the trail

I'm starting to feel a little like a real hiker and I'm starting to see more thru hikers who started in Georgia in late February/Early March. My trail cred pales in comparison as they blow by me doing big miles each day.

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Day 1

Time: Wed, 3 Apr 2019 19:39:34 -0400

Location: Saunders Shelter mile 480.1 8 miles north of Damascus

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=36.63803%2C-81.71372

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Breakfast with Helen at Damascus Diner. Walked together from Dragonfly Inn to nobo AT and said goodbyes. 

Hiked  a little with Yawasi a 63 year old section hiker from Blairsville at start. Passed several day hikers sobo. Young kid we saw in town passed me. We talked briefly. He is thru-hiking north. Saw 2 ladies and guy from diner dayhiking. Said they're from Indiana training for a section hiker in the summer through Shenandoah.

Very pretty section along and above river and Creeper Trail where we rode bikes yesterday. 1000 ft elevation gain. 4.5 hours to shelter. Nice lady named Tamela only other hiker at shelter. She's an empty nester semi retired nurse section hiking. Helped her hang her bear bag and chatted.

Pretty night not too cold.

Love you. Miss you ❤️

Day 2

Time: Thu, 4 Apr 2019 18:01:16 -0400

Location: Mile 489 3 mi N of Lost Mtn Shelter 10 mi S of Thomas Knob Shelter

A little over 9 miles today. See some people but overall a lonely solitary experience so far. Pretty weather and scenery along the Creeper Trail and now climbing towards Mount Rogers.

My body feels good. Didn't sleep well.

Passed several section hikers. One older guy is training for thruhike next year

Got several comments on hiking in sandals. 

Several thru hikers passed by my camp. A couple stopped to talk. Real nice middle aged Hispanic guy Xisco from Phoenix. He's not used to the cold. Should be getting passed by more thru hikers soon as they are doing 20+ miles.

Slept at Saunders Shelter last night. Only other hiker there was Tamela a semi retired nurse section hiking very slowly. She was the hiker we saw struggling when were riding bikes on the Creeper Trail.

I passed Yawasi sleeping in his hammock a few miles in. He just showed up and setup camp nearby. He's nice and likes sharing his knowledge. Showed me his hammock setup.

Wind really picking up. Rain tonight and tomorrow. Planning on camping near Thomas Knob Shelter we saw on our hike to Mt Rogers.

Love you and miss you ❤️

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=36.63964%2C-81.63857

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Day 3

Time: Fri, 5 Apr 2019 20:33:10 -0400

Location: Thomas Knob Shelter Nobo mile 498.9

Earned some trail cred today with rain, wind, and big climb to Mt Rogers. 10 miles today. Wore my compactor bag skirt and sealskinz socks and used my umbrella. It worked well.

Broke camp about 9am and hiked till about 4pm. Sleeping in the shelter tonight trying to dry some things.

Saw several day hikers and a small scout group. Sharing shelter with Dad 3 kids and dog. Young couple stopped to eat and enjoyed talking with them. He thru hiked in 2015. They want to do the PCT next year.

Play hiking with coffee beer and cuddling is more fun than real hiking.

Love you. Miss you ❤️.

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=36.65634%2C-81.53539

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Day 4

Time: Sat, 6 Apr 2019 20:41:45 -0400

Location: Old Orchard Shelter 12 mi Nobo mi 510.8

Family with dog slept upstairs in Thomas Knob Shelter. I slept downstairs. Woke up to 3 ponies milling around. The kids and dog were very excited.

2 girls a guy and a dog camped nearby. Chatted with them. Ponies gathered around as I made breakfast on top of the bear box. One licked me and then gave me a little bite.

Pretty day hiking through Grayson Highlands. Lots of day hikers. Cute 60sh lady asked if I was thru-hiking. She did it in 2010.

Finally got cell service and was able to call home. It was really nice ☺️. Mom said Derek's team did well on their ME project competition.

Met Papa John a thru hiker about my age from Auburn AL. He hiked on after chatting with me. He had just taken a zero in Damascus for some honey time with his wife and was trying to catch his group.

Scout group camping in the clearing below. Lots of laughter and a campfire.

It's nice. The scoutmaster came up and talked with me for an hour. He thru hiked in 2010 and knows a lot about hiking. We had a good time.

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=36.68339%2C-81.51112

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Day 5

Time: Mon, 8 Apr 2019 19:43:08 -0400

Location: Trimpi Shelter NoBo mile 524.2

14 miles today. Scouts camped in meadow below shelter. It was nice hearing laughter and watching the fire. Easy Hiker (2010 thru) and Frito (2001? thru) walked up to share stories. It was really nice. Had the shelter to myself. Didn't think I would be sleeping in shelters, but I'm liking them. Less hassle than setting up camp and meeting people. 

Finally went to the bathroom. Nice privy. Looks like I might be brown blazing. 

Met GW (Global Warming) at Hurricane Mountain Shelter at lunch. We hiked a couple hours together. He's from Albany NY and just graduated with an environmental science degree. Showed me a lot of plants and trees. Told me to eat 3 hemlock or white pine needles to get my vitamin c. Knows a lot of bird calls. Neat kid.

Have seen a few SOBO's who got hurt last year and came back this year to finish within calendar year to qualify as official thru hikers.

Lots of section hikers who return periodically with the goal of eventually piecing together the entire trail. Some have devoted many years and come from far away.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=36.80938%2C-81.42252

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Day 6

Time: Wed, 10 Apr 2019 07:09:35 -0400

Location: Partnership Shelter NoBo mile 534

Yesterday, I took another blue blazed trail near the Trimpi shelter and went the wrong way for half a mile or so. First time getting lost.

Section Hiker with his dog Dixie was at the Trimpi Shelter. Really nice guy and super sweet lab.

Group of 4 guys started showing up all spaced out. They were a hoot. One of the guys is an IE from GT 89. He works for John Deere and lives in Waterloo IA.  He's been section hiking the AT over the years and invited 3 friends along for a week. One guy was from his church, another younger guy works for him and lives in Wisconsin, and a hot mess of guy who is a childhood friend from Franklin TN who brought pot laced death star gummies for his friends. Lots of guy humor. BOFA: as in bofa my balls. Good times.

They weren't in the best shape and were hurting after their first day. They were headed south to Damascus.

A kid that GW started with, Montana Slim, from Louisiana showed up late. It was nice and cozy. A full house and a real snore and fart fest with middle of the night pee trips for all us old guys.

Everyone was in bed by 9 and up at dawn. Had some more laughs in the morning before parting ways.

Hiked 10 miles alone today to Partnership Shelter. Rained hard the last couple miles. 

Saw GW and a Sobo named Comics hanging out under the awning at the Pat Jennings Visitor Center next to the shelter. Comics posts her comic artwork at Rotu Comics on Instagram.

We dried out and took a shuttle into Marion for some pizza and resupply. A cute old couple Jim Sparks and his wife shuttled us back. Their son was a thru hiker and they love to talk with hikers. Jim's wife was watching the progress of a group of older women thru hikers who call themselves The Wandering Women and expected them to come through soon.

I'm starting to have some real trail experiences and feeling like a real hiker.

GW and Comics talked about other hikers. They talked about meeting the Crawford Family of thru hikers.

Ghost, a 32 year old guy from Germany showed up late. He had hiked 30 miles that day. People fall in love with the trail from all over the world. He watched Darwin and Dixie in Germany and talked about how expensive it is to order the lightweight American gear overseas.

Love you 😘 Miss you ❤️

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=36.88564%2C-81.37465

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Day 7

Time: Wed, 10 Apr 2019 16:24:02 -0400

Location: Relax Inn Atkins VA Nobo mile 545.6

Stayed the previous night at Partnership Shelter with GW, Comics, and Ghost. Chatted with Ghost about his 6 month visa limit and how he wanted to finish the trail so he could visit some places like NY and Boston before returning to Germany.

Comics headed Sobo and GW and I stopped by the Pat Jennings Visitor  Center nearby before heading north.

Stopped for lunch at the Chatfield Shelter with GW. It was a pretty setting among the rhodendron and overlooking a stream. An African looking young lady day hiker showed up but sat in the shelter alone avoiding interaction. Almost like she had some sort of vow of silence.

I like my peanut butter, olive oil, honey combination. Thai rice noodles don't cold soak well, but potatoes, rice, cous cous, ramen, spam, chicken, tuna, and oatmeal do. No regrets with cold soak.

A couple miles later I got my first live trail magic. I got a root beer someone left at a trail register the previous day. A couple came out with some special needs adults. They were so tickled to see us. They had everything a hiker would want including hygiene and medical supplies. Their son had thru hiked and they had been perfecting their spread over the years. I had a cherry Dr Pepper Fritos and Snickers. GW strained his calf/Achilles and gladly picked up an ace bandage.

GW stopped by the Settler's Museum nearby and got a tour from a nice young guy. GW played their old piano.

Since GW was hurting I offered to share a room with him at the Relax Inn in Atkins VA and he accepted. I had already planned to zero there. I feel fine, but I'm trying to heed the advice to go slow to start. The shower was appreciated.

The Relax Inn has seen better days. The reviews are hilarious. We ate at the Mexican restaurant nearby for dinner. It was really good but no liquor.

Love you 😘 Miss you ❤️

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=36.88567%2C-81.37457

Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app

Day 8

Time: Wed, 10 Apr 2019 17:25:51 -0400

Location: Relax Inn Atkins VA NoBo mile 545.6

Zero day today at the Relax Inn with GW. I just recently realized that a zero day means 2 nights. The night you check in and the night you zero. 

Breakfast and lunch at The Barn. Good not great. Not the Damascus Diner. GW saw Space Rocks and recognized other hikers who recently signed The Barn's hiker log. Montana Slim called out GW. GW really wants to get back on the trail.

Been doing logistics and cleaning. Trying to catch up on my journal entries. I'm terrible using my phone. Should have practiced more. Don't know how I'll get around to blogging. Wish I had a desktop computer.

Made reservations for Apr 16-17 at Wood's Hole hostel 80 miles north near Pearisburg VA.

Love you 😘 Miss you ❤️

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=36.88561%2C-81.37475

Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app

2019 AT Thru Hike: ...Set...Go!

Helen and I stopped by Amicalola Falls to pick up my AT Thru Hiker tag on the way to Damascus VA where I started my AT flipflop thru hike.

We drove through Roan Highlands on the way and stayed at the Dragon Fly Inn in Damascus. We hiked up to Mount Rogers from Grayson Highlands and saw the ponies. We rode bikes on the Virginia Creeper Trail. We enjoyed meals at the Damascus Diner and then Helen walked me through town and I walked up the iconic steps and started my hike on April 3rd.

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2019 App Trail Thru Hike: Ready, Set, ...

Helen and I are leaving this weekend to spend a few days in the mountains around Damascus, Virginia where I'll start my Appalachian Trail Thru-Hike

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The entire trail is about 2200 miles long from Springer Mountain, GA to Mount Katahdin, ME and Damascus is about 475 miles in

Larger Map and State by State Descriptions

Spraying my clothes and gear with Permethrin insect and tick repellent before I go

Overview: Just an average old(er) guy going on a really long walk to see what he can see

Why Start From Damascus? I'm trying to avoid the "bubble" of people at the start of the trail. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy encourages people to "flip flop" in order to mitigate the wear and tear on the trail. Damascus is the quintessential trail town and we had a great time visiting the area in 2017. The entire trail is about 2200 miles long from Springer Mountain, GA to Mount Katahdin, ME and Damascus is about 475 miles in. If I can, I'll walk 1700 miles to Maine where Helen will pick me up this summer and drive me back to Damascus and then I'll "walk home".

Are You Going Alone? Yes. I'm sure I'll meet people on the trail.

Biggest Worries? Injury, Lyme Disease, other sickness

Biggest Hopes? That I'll enjoy it. I'm looking forward to the physical and mental challenge. I like the idea of each day being different and, yet, strung together by the simple direct minimal "ethics" of it all: walk, eat, sleep...walk, eat, sleep...rinse, wash, repeat. 

What About Helen, Derek, and Adam? The boys are busy doing their own things. For Helen and I, it will be tough. She's been trying to get comfortable with all the financial\logistics I usually handle. Hopefully, in addition to picking me up in Maine, she'll also be able to fly up for an earlier visit. Maybe in New York to see a Broadway play. Derek mentioned coming up to see me and do some hiking with his friend Tyler.  

2019 App Trail Thru Hike: Still Tweeking

One week before my Appalachian Trail Thru-Hike departure and I'm still tweeking

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I'm new to all this backpacking stuff and trying to figure out which food storage system to go with is one of the most confusing parts. You have to worry about rodents, bears, people, and everything in between.

The most common method is hanging a bear bag and, usually, everybody just glosses over it leaving out a lot of contradictory details. Andrew Skurka's recent article on how bear bag hanging is a losing proposition confirmed my unsettled feeling about it from a pro's pro perspective.

I went by REI this past weekend to see if a bear canister would fit in my bag. It did, but it's heavy and with my food and water pushes me up close to the max suggested 35lb weight for my ULA Circuit backpack. Two of the REI workers came over and showed me pictures of their mangled "bear proof" kevlar Ursacks. They were camping recently and had to leave their camp in the middle of the night when an aggressive bear got to their hung Ursack's and eventually ripped them apart.

I think the effectiveness of the solution depends on which bear\bears you encounter. A momma bear with cubs can work together to get to a hung bear bag easier than a big heavy lazy male, but the big heavy lazy male probably appreciates an easily accessible Ursack or bear canister that he can use his raw strength against. Then there are the rodents, racoons, etc.

I'm hiking around with a bear canister this week to see if I can handle the weight. I kind of like the idea of the weight forcing me to go slow to start, but it also puts additional strain on my body. I have options to drop weight if I need to, but I don't want to hurt myself in the mean time. I crave "clean" solutions free of contradictions and inconsistencies.

Like with a lot of things, security is relative. True security is an illusion. You do what you can to deter the aggressor and hope they'll move on to easier targets, but a determined aggressor will usually prevail.

Bear Bag Pros: least expensive and lightest weight by far (4 oz)
Bear Bag Cons: time consuming to find perfect tree and hang, hard\impossible to hang properly, easiest to defeat if bad hang and have been defeated even if perfect hang, not rodent proof

Ursack Pros: much lighter (.5-1.5 lb) than bear cannister, easy to tie to tree\rock instead of hanging, takes a determined bear to puncture
Ursack Cons: heavier than bear bag, easier for bear to get when not hanging, bear resistant not bear proof, food can be mangled even if not punctured, only most expensive\heaviest Ursack is considered rodent proof

Bear Canister Pros: easiest to deploy - no hanging or tying required, rodent proof, can be used as seat, hardest to defeat and thus considered most responsible method for protecting bears
Bear Canister Cons: heaviest by far (2.5 lb), bulky and inflexible, hardest to get into especially with cold\gloved fingers, have been defeated by determined bears

2019 App Trail Thru Hike: The Mental Part

Thinking about the mental part as I prepare for my early April Appalachian Trail Thru-Hike departure

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Thru hiking is as much mental as it is physical. I'm under no illusion. It's going to be tough.

For many, the trail calls to the wanderlust in our soul. It's easy to romanticize and there are enough stories and information out there to keep us immersed in that wonderland. It's even more fun when you start preparing and playing with all the gear. Doing the actual hiking is the hard part. As Mike Tyson said, "Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the face." Some people like this guy and this guy make it look so easy that you question why you bother to plan at all.  

I borrowed a book on Mindfulness a while back from the Kindle lending library and finally got around to starting it. I was "busy", but it probably took me so long because I was skeptical. It turns out, I shouldn't have been. I'm sure the ideas are going to help me in real life and on my thru hike.

I'm analytical and judging and I like it. It's me and I don't want to turn it off. It makes me critical and impatient with myself and the world around me, but I like what all the analyzing and judging gives me in terms of planning and navigating life and I certainly like where it got me up to this point - retired and planning to walk the Appalachian Trail.

However, the analyzing and judging is relentless, distracting, and, at times, overwhelming and all-consuming. Every decision, every sensory input, every interaction is a 1000 word mental essay of pros and cons with a backing data sheet. I have no idea what it's like to live in the rapid "texting bubble" world of simple back and forths skimming along the surface of awareness. I find it difficult to interact in that world.

I reject the idea that analyzing and judging is "bad", but I would like it to be more efficient. I want it to be "quieter". I want it to sleep when it's not needed and turn on when it is. Finding the balance is the challenge.   

Here are some tips from other hikers for handling the mental part of a thru hike:

• Break your hike up into micro-goals instead of looking at the trail as a whole. Your next resupply point, shelter, water source, etc.
• Express gratitude to the rocks or mud...for making me stronger, leaner, kinder, more patient etc. - whatever I wish to have more of in my life. And I have been known to sing to a steep mountain - the song is an original created in that moment. It is kind of a zen technique to become one with the mountain.
• 'Square' breathing (breath in 4-count, hold 4-count, exhale 4-count, hold 4-count)
• Think in terms of  "I get to" not "I have to"
• Focus on one thing (like your breath or a word\phrase\song) while you're walking and try only to think of that one thing and you will notice that your mind will try to guide you off of it but ease yourself back to it and, eventually,  you will get better at it
• Push awareness out of my body - toward the smells carried on my breath, the sounds both near and far away, the beauty in whatever is around, etc. The surroundings have no pain of the body, no depressing memory of past mistakes and trials, no anxiety-inducing anticipation of the future, they just exist in the present moment.
• Be inquisitive about everything...like it's the first time you have seen the object (like a tree, flower, cloud). It forces you to be present as you decipher what and why the object truly exists.
• Pretend like you're walking with someone:  friend, loved one, pet, historical figure, etc
• List all the things you are grateful for. Don't stop short. Make the list as long as possible.
• Use all your senses to take in this moment. Nudge your awareness to the smallest of things near and far that you can sense in this moment. Your mind will wander away and that's okay, just gently nudge it back without admonition.
• Start with individual toes and work your way up paying attention to detailed sensations near and far. Eventually settle on the rhythm of your breath - an amazing thing always there for us to return to. Try to sense it spreading to even your most distant distinct body parts. Your mind will wander away and that's okay, just gently nudge it back without admonition.  

2019 App Trail Thru Hike: Accessories

Accessories for my early April Appalachian Trail Thru-Hike departure

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(From Top Left):

Black Diamond Trekking Poles: Lightweight and collapsible. I don't plan on using them all the time, but they're really nice when slippery, steep, tired, hurting, etc. 

Electronics: Phone, MP3 player and earbuds, Anker 10000 portable charger, outlet charger and cords, small notebook and pencil

Suunto Compass: Not necessary on the well marked AT, but it's responsible to have one and know the basics. GutHook GPS phone app shows you where you are. I also installed a compass phone app. I expect the weather to come from the south\west\north and plan to setup my tent accordingly by securing necessary guy lines, using existing rocks\trees\etc as shielding, and facing my door away from the weather.

Black Diamond Head Lamp: Having one with the red night light mode, so as not to blind others, is expected on the trail

Sea To Summit Bug Net: Never used one before, but highly recommended on the trail

Outdoor Research Helios Sun Hat: For sun, rain, tick protection, and to keep bug netting off of your face and ears

Rain Poncho: For driving rain and wind. It insulates my core and I can pull my arms and hands inside and shield them too. I use one we had laying around. It's a nice weight. Some are too flimsy and some are too heavy.

Umbrella: Becoming more popular on the trail. Usually rigged to attach to your backpack to keep hands free for trekking poles, phone, etc. I just got one on impulse at the grocery store to try and I think I like it. It was nice on a recent hike when sporadic rain started falling not to have to keep putting on and taking off my rain gear. I attach mine with an 18 inch gear tie. It's a little clunky but works.

Sun and Reading Glasses: Annoyingly, I think I have to bring my reading glasses. Sunglasses can help with gnats in your eyes.

Knee Compression Sleeve: Recently picked up a lightweight compression sleeve just in case. Knee pain seems common on the trail, especially when getting acclimated. I can see adding some heat rub and using it more for recovery than stability. I only have one so only one knee at a time is allowed to hurt.

Recovery Ball: Lacrosse ball for rolling out sore muscles. I like to lay on it and roll out my hips, back, IT bands, etc

Quick Dry Towel: I cut a quick dry towel down, but left it substantial enough for wiping sweat, rain, etc.

Poop kit: Loksak odorless bag and velcro strap, pet waste bags, toilet paper, hand sanitizer, anti-microbial towels, and snow stake. I plan on packing my waste out or at least disposing it in privies, but I have a lightweight snow stake to dig a hole just in case.

Tape, Repair, etc Bag: Small amounts of duct, gorilla, leuko, rock, and tenacious tape, lighter and dryer lint, tent pole splint, ziplock bags, reusable towels, pet waste bags, toilet paper, air pad repair kit. It's common to wrap a little tape around trekking poles for quick access.

Quick Hygiene, etc (in hip belt for quick access): Picaridin insect repellent, bleach (norovirus), hand sanitizer, quick dry towel strip, lip balm, pocket knife, fishing line for cutting sausage\cheese\etc, emergency whistle

Daily Hygiene Bag (odorless bag of frequently used stuff): tooth paste and brush, floss and floss sticks, Dr Bronner's peppermint soap, hand sanitizer, reusable towels and scrub pad, Badger foot balm

Other Hygiene Bag (odorless bag with small amounts removed from original packaging): rock tape, eye drops, sunscreen, laundry detergent, body glide, body powder, Vaseline, heat rub, anti-biotic and anti-fungal creams, ibuprofen, Aleve, Sudafed, Benadryl, Claritin, Mucinex, Pepto Bismol, razor and blades, tweezers, nail clippers, needle and thread for repair and blister drainage