2019 AT Thru Hike: Week 4 - Catawba to Waynesboro VA

Week 4 of my Appalachian Trail Thru Hike

I'm now a month on the trail and almost 400 miles. I got some recent boo boos, but overall I feel good and can pretty much keep up with the hikers that started at Springer Mountain in late February/Early March.

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Day 23

Time Thu, 25 Apr 2019 15:31:40 -0400

Location: Campbell Shelter mile 714.3 (Northbound) of the Appalachian Trail

We had a nice evening at Four Pines Hostel last night. It was pleasant weather and our clothes were drying on the clothesline. We drank beer and ate our takeout from Catawba Grocery. Most of us got pizza and some resupply. We also picked up some breakfast food.

Pa and I were up before light and drank coffee and talked. Mule fixed a nice big pancake breakfast. There were 2 older section hikers who were tenting and they joined us. They shuttled Boot and Finnish Line to the trail for some slack packing. 

Acaticus drove up from Angels Rest in Pearisburg with some tip money for Mule. Joe the Four Pines hostel owner and Nature Boy the caretaker talked shop with Acaticus and Mule. There seemed to be a real mutual respect between all of them.

I left Four Pines about 11:30. I had about 6 miles to The Homeplace Restaurant. They're only open Thursday night thru Sunday and I was staging myself for the iconic experience. Helen, Adam, and I had eaten there twice when we visited the area in 2017.

It was a pretty day but a little warm. The trail was nice. I made it to Homeplace about 2:30 and used their hose to clean up. I relaxed in one of the rocking chairs on the porch and eventually people started to arrive.

An older gentleman sat next to me. He kind of looked like a hiker. Turned out he was. His trail name is Catnapper because he used to do ultra marathons dressed in black and his kids said he looked like a Catnapper.

We dined together. He's a retired nuclear physicist from New Mexico and this is his 5th year on the AT. He rented a car this year and is just doing some favorite sections. Interesting guy and lots of trail talk.

We had all you can eat fried chicken, roast beef, ham, pulled pork, mashed potatoes, gravy, biscuits, pinto beans, green beans, cole slaw, baked apples, sweet tea, peach cobbler and ice cream. It was so good. I've eaten well the past couple of days.

We saw Boot, Finnish Line, Lorax, Scoutmaster, and some others who had shuttled over to Homeplace from Four Pines.

Catnapper drove me back to the trail head. I saw two younger girl thru hikers and they were trying to get to Homeplace so I introduced them to Catnapper and he drove them.

I hiked 4 miles up to McAfee Knob. I talked on the phone to Helen as I reached the knob and we talked about how we were there with Adam in 2017.

There was no one else there. I admired the view and a few rain drops started to fall. Rain is expected tomorrow

I hiked a couple miles to Campbell Shelter. There were some section hikers and a small scout group camping nearby. Mule and Mishna were the only ones there. We caught up and thought that Pa would be there also.

Looks like some rain tomorrow as we make our way over Tinker Cliffs on the way to Daleville.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.3802%2C-80.08965

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Day 24

Time: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 04:08:20 -0400

Location: Daleville VA NoBo Mile 729.6 of Appalachian Trail

Mule, his Shepard Mishna, and I were at the Campbell Shelter just past McAfee Knob last night. Big storms and heavy wind overnight. I was worried for the tent campers nearby.

Mule had talked to a nice pair of brothers and their sister from Toronto. They came down to hike the Dragons Tooth, McAfee Knob, Tinker Cliffs trifecta.

We were up at dawn to hike the 17 miles into Daleville. It was gusty and threatening rain but a pleasant hiking temperature.

There were beautiful views from Tinker Cliffs, The rain eventually came but it was manageable. I used my rain skirt and umbrella. There were a number of hikers out early for this popular section, but didn't see any other thru hikers.

Stopped for a break after 6 miles at the Lambert's Meadow Shelter. Mule and Mishna were there also. We read in the shelter log that Pa had stayed there overnight and that the 16.5 miles was his biggest day yet.

We continued on to Daleville with pretty views along the rocky ridge line of the Daleville/Troutville valley on one side and the Carvin Cove reservoir on the other.

We finally made our way down to Daleville as the winds gusted and a storm threatened. It can take a deceivingly long time to make it down to the valley from the ridge.

Mule was planning to take a couple days at the Howard Johnson's in Daleville but was concerned about leaving Mishna his dog alone while he resupplied. I offered to split a room with him and watch Mishna for him.

We were beat and glad to be at the HoJo. It's right off the trail and very hiker friendly. It's pretty run down but relatively cheap with a special hiker rate. They had fresh coffee in the lobby.

We cleaned up and made a resupply plan. We ate outside at 3 Pigs Barbecue so that we could take Mishna. It was chilly and blustery, but the food was good and they were really nice. They give hikers free banana pudding.

There was a Kroger in the same shopping center. We took turns watching Mishna while the other one shopped. Mishna is a people magnet.

We walked over to Bojangles and got some Boo Berry and some cinnamon biscuits for later.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.39236%2C-79.90725

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Day 25

Time: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 20:26:12 -0400

Location: Bobblets Gap Shelter NoBo Mile 748.2 of Appalachian Trail

Shared a room with Mule and his dog Mishna at the Howard Johnson's in Daleville VA.

Had some leftover Bojangles biscuits as well as the continental breakfast. Took a shower and packed up. I have a full supply of food and my bag feels really heavy. 

There's always  big climbs out of town, but at least there were nice switchbacks to make the climb more gradual.

Saw Scoutmaster a young guy from Philadelphia via Colorado at the first shelter out of Daleville. I had seen him at Homplace and the Howard Johnson's. We had a snack and noticed a note that said there would be trail magic with grilled hamburgers at a road crossing 10 miles away until 4 or 5 pm and it was 12:15, which meant we had to hustle. He's fast so I told him to tell them to wait for the old guy.

I saw the first Rhododendron blooms. There were several really nice creeks.

I saw Book Bag and Sneak Attack the two girls I had helped get a ride to Homeplace. We were all taking a break at the next shelter and willed ourselves to try and make the trail magic in time.

Book Bag is from Western Massachusetts and will be starting at Carnegie Mellon in the fall. Sneak Attack is from Michigan and attends Carnegie Mellon. They met on the trail and have been hiking together for awhile.

We made it to the trail magic a little after 4. They were set up in one of the overlooks where the AT crosses the Blue Ridge Parkway. It was family from Harper's Ferry visiting their kids who were thru hiking. It was so nice. We hung around and enjoyed it for a while before heading to the next shelter as it was getting dark.

It was an 18 mile day. Deadpool was there and we caught up. Leggs/Dairy King, Scoutmaster, Book Bag, Sneak Attack were there also. I also talked with Abernacky a 70 year old section hiker.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.46713%2C-79.70132

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Day 26

Time: Sun, 28 Apr 2019 20:15:48 -0400

Location: Cornelius Creek Shelter NoBo Mile 766.6 of Appalachian Trail

18.4 miles today from Bobblets Gap Shelter to Cornelius Creek Shelter.

Passed by two young guys that I thought were scouts or day hikers. They were moving slow and their packs were too big.

We saw each other again at a road crossing about 10 miles from the shelter last night. They were trying to make a call but had no service. They said they were trying to call the Middle Creek Campground shuttle. I told them I was trying to do the same.

They're from England a year out of high school and have a 3 month visa. They started their hike a couple days ago in Daleville and are trying to get as far as they can in 3 months. They're painfully aware their gear is too heavy.

The two Carnegie Mellon girls Book Bag and Sneak Attack also joined us at the campground. It was really nice. They have a well stocked camp store and a nice grill.

I had a thick bacon cheeseburger, onion rings, beer, root beer, and a shake. We all had a nice time and tried to help the kids with their gear.

The climb after lunch was tough. I have too much food and I was so annoyed with myself as I struggled up up up all afternoon.

I really need to do better with my resupply. There's a limit to what I can comfortably carry and I crossed it.

My right foot is bothering me some and the weight doesn't help. My right foot has bothered me most of my adult life so I'm used to it to some degree. I used some Rock Tape on my arch today and it helped. I took my first dose of ibuprofen tonight.

Deadpool was at the shelter as well as a nice young guy named Grandpa. Book Bag and Sneak Attack also made it.

Looks like we're all planning to do 20 miles into Glasgow tomorrow. The town is 5 miles off trail so we'll have to hitch or get a shuttle. The town offers a free bunkhouse and camping and there's a popular hostel called Stanimals.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.49405%2C-79.54687

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Day 27

Time Mon, 29 Apr 2019 23:44:37 -0400

Location: Stanimals Hostel Glasgow VA NoBo Mile 786.6 of Appalachian Trail

Slept at the Cornelius Creek Shelter last night. Just me and Deadpool in the shelter. Book Bag, Sneak Attack, and Grandpa tented nearby.

Everyone was on the the trail early for the 20 mile day to the James River and a 5 mile.shuttle to Glasgow for resupply.

It was chilly and the trail was pretty as it we wound through pine forests. Lots of pretty flowers especially Cherokee Rose and May Apple.

Stopped at the Thunder Hill Shelter after 5 miles for a snack and some water. A young guy named Reader was there. He had a Rutgers University hat on. He's doing a south bound flip flop starting from the Delaware Water Gap. We talked about the trail ahead and hiking in Chacos.

Guthook said there was no cell service at the James River so we would need to call for a shuttle from the ridge.

I called a little after noon and said I was about 10 miles away. They asked if I could make it by 4 o'clock or so when they already had a scheduled pickup. I said I would try.

It was just like with the trail magic a couple days ago. 10 miles and 4 hours to get there.

You think you can go at your own pace and usually you can, but I saw over and over in my reading and videos how people inevitably had to push themselves to get somewhere before some place like a post office or store closed.

My foot felt better. Maybe the ibuprofen helped. My Pack also felt less heavy. It's funny how that happens. Sometime you put it on it feels noticably heavier and other times almost weightless.

It was a nice trail but a real knee pounding descent towards the end. Sometimes you would rather climb than face a relentless rock filled descent.

I caught my first glimpse of the James River and the valley below about 2 hours before I reached it. The rhododendrons and mountain Laurel are starting to bloom. 

The trail ran alongside a pretty creek before paralleling the James River. I made it across the footbridge about 3:45 and saw Deadpool waiting. The shuttle from Stanimals Hostel arrived about 4. 

Grandpa had gone into Glasgow to resupply and was being dropped back at the trailhead. He's a young guy and said he got the name because he has an old external frame backpack. Last night he. was telling us how he hikes from 7 to 7 everyday. I've heard that general plan from most thru hikers.

Donna the Stanimals caretaker dropped Deadpool and I at the post office just before it closed. I mailed almost 4-5 pounds of stuff back home. Hope I won't miss it, but looking forward to having a lighter pack tomorrow.

Deadpool and I walked to the Dollar General next door. He resupplied, but I still have plenty of food from Daleville. We picked up some stuff to make a big spaghetti dinner and some Devil's Backbone Vienna Lager.

Johnny Walker and Muffit, retired police officers, were zeroing at the hostel. We swapped stories while we feasted.

Book Bag, Sneak Attack, and a southbounder named Tin Man arrived later. It was a good group.

There was lots of resupplying logistics, eating, and updates on hikers we have seen. We watched Deadpool 2 in honor of our own Deadpool.

Derek finished his Spring semester exams. Hooray!

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.62933%2C-79.45581

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Day 28

Time: Tue, 30 Apr 2019 20:09:34 -0400

Location: Brown Mountain Creek Shelter  mile 806.7 (Northbound) of the Appalachian Trail

Shuttle from Stanimals Hostel in Glasgow VA left for the James River trail head at 7:30. Me, Deadpool, Book Bag, Sneak Attack, Johnny Walker, and Muffit.

It was a big climb up from the James River. It was comfortable in the morning but got to 84 degrees later. Hottest day of the year. The green tunnel blocks our views but also gives us shelter from the sun.

Took a nice lunch break at the Punch Bowl Shelter with Deadpool.

My Pack feels much lighter after sending some stuff home in Glasgow. The scale at Stanimals says I weigh 172. My base pack weighs 17. My food weighs 8 and 1 liter of water weighs 2.

We did 20 miles to the Brown Mountain Creek shelter. It's a beautiful setting next to a creek. It's me, Deadpool, Book Bag Sneak Attack, Scoutmaster, Legs/Dairy King, and Bent Frame a south bound section hiker.

It was a long hard day, but a beautiful finish walking along the creek. We found a nice deep hole to get in and cool off and then all hung around the picnic table while we ate.

2 days until the Devil's Backbone Brewery at mile 844. Talking about doing 22.4 miles to the Priest shelter tomorrow

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘.

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.70942%2C-79.26826

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Day 29

Time: Wed, 1 May 2019 20:11:15 -0400

Location: Seeley-Woodworth Shelter NoBo Mile 822.5 of Appalachian Trail

Stayed at the Brown Mountain Creek Shelter last night. Probably the nicest shelter setting so far. It's nestled in a dense forest along a beautiful creek. The sound of the creek was very soothing.

The shelter starts to stir just before dawn. I hung around a little and chatted with Bent Frame a recently retired Marine Helicopter Pilot/Teacher/Culinary Art Student. He started a thru hike over 20 years ago and stopped in Pearisburg. He's been piecing together sections ever since. He's headed south so we swapped info.

Scoutmaster, Dairy King, Deadpool, Book Bag, and Sneak Attack were all heading 22 miles to the Priest Shelter. My left ankle is a little sprained so I wasn't sure I could make it that far.

I tried putting Rock Tape on my ankle and it helped but fell off when I started sweating. I stopped and tried duct tape but it wouldn't stay either. I took it slow and methodically, but it's hard to keep from banging or catching on something.

There was a big climb to start. There was a nice view of the valley once we reached the ridge. Book Bag, Sneak Attack, and I took a break there.

At some point my right inside quad seized up and made me forget about my ankle. I took a long break in a pretty tree covered spot next to a spring. I thought about camping there, but decided to rig a makeshift compression band just above my right knee. It helped but I moved slowly. I saw Johnny Walker and Muffit as I was getting back on the trail. They were going to camp in that nice spot.

I made it 16 miles to the Seeley-Woodworth Shelter. I'm the only one here tonight. I called home and talked to Adam and Helen. Adam said it's go time at school to finish a lot of stuff. Derek and Madison are supposed to come over tomorrow and go see the new Avengers movie.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.81892%2C-79.15495

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Day 30

Time: Thu, 2 May 2019 19:46:32 -0400

Location: Harper's Creek Shelter NoBo Mile 836.7 of Appalachian Trail

Spent the night alone at the Seeley-Woodworth Shelter. I haven't been alone in a shelter for awhile. Nobody has been hanging their food and I didn't last night. I was a little spooked and kept thinking I heard something. I haven't used my head lamp yet. I just use the little LED light I keep attached to my pillow. The sounds made me dig out my head lamp, but it didn't work. I ended up messing with it for awhile. I'm not sleeping soundly usually, but I don't feel deprived. 

I woke to a beautiful sunrise sky through the trees. 49er dropped by as I was packing up. I stayed with him at Woods Hole a couple weeks ago. He had gotten off trail for 5 days to go to Jazz Fest in New Orleans. He said he's been lonely since he got back and said how there weren't many people around. I told him I was with a group just ahead but was nursing some injuries. He knows Book Bag and Sneak Attack and was going to try to meet them at the Devil's Backbone Brewery today.

I felt good and took it slow but there were some big ups and downs. I took a quick side trail to Spy Rock, a big rock outcropping with a nice 360 degree view.

I stopped at The Priest Shelter for a break and some water. Cold Brew, a southbound section hiker, and I talked about the heat and Maine among other things.

After the break my right inner quad locked up again. It beautiful trail but it was a mental struggle to block out the pain. I made it 14.2 miles today to the Harper's Creek shelter. It's a beautiful setting along a creek.

There was a nice 19 year old kid from Ocean City Maryland at the shelter. He's doing a short overnight hike, but would like to do a thru hike. He had a lot of questions and I enjoyed talking to him. He showed me pictures of a classic car he's restoring. He likes his car, surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding, and hiking. He's not too worried about the rest.

I'm trying to do 8 miles to the road and get a ride to Devil's Backbone Brewery. It's a neat place with free camping for thru hikers, food, and other services. I might stay there a couple days to let my boo boos heal. I can't think of a better place. I just wish I was already there.

Love you ❤️ Miss you
Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.85614%2C-79.00043

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Day 31

Time  Fri, 3 May 2019 13:27:07 -0400

Location: Devil's Backbone Brewpub NoBo Mile 844.6 of Appalachian Trail

Spent last name night alone at the Harper's Creek Shelter. The kid from Ocean City MD decided to move on instead of spending the night.

I got up to pee about 4 am and noticed several headlights heading towards the shelter. They ended up camping nearby. You could see their headlamps and hear them gathering and chopping wood. Obviously not thru hikers. I was pretty much up so no big deal . Kind of neat to night hike with your friends. I saw several tarps set up nearby when I left the shelter about 7 am.

Last night I babied my aching right thigh. I rubbed it down with alcohol and kept my legs elevated for awhile.

I figured out that I just need to let my inside thigh muscle calm down. I was trying to stretch it and had it wrapped, but I figured out that I just needed to keep my leg somewhat straight.

It was a tough track up and over narrow rock scrambles of Three Ridges. I just took my time and tried to keep my leg somewhat straight. My left ankle is feeling much better, so I can put more weight on my left leg. Thankfully I made it almost 9 miles to Reed's Gap without activating my boo boo. I wish I had known what to do the past couple days. Oh well, live and learn.

I saw some day hikers and section hikers headed south. A trail runner passed me and we chatted for a minute. He's training for a race over the rocks of Pennsylvania and this trail section is good training for the race.

The trail was rocky but wooded and pretty. The green is filling in and you can smell a flowery fragrance in the air. It was a pleasant morning with lots of birds chirping.

It only took a couple minutes for me to hitch a ride from Reed's Gap to the Devil's Backbone Brewpub. Two older gentleman stopped. They asked about me and then the driver said he was a retired doctor from West Alabama and the passenger was his college roommate. They were hiking in the area with friends.

I was so happy to finally be at Devil's Backbone. It's a neat place. Thru Hikers camp for free. It's quite a compound.

I had a delicious lunch at the bar with a couple of beers. I had a mixed greens salad with blue cheese dressing, shrimp po boy, fries, homemade banana pudding, and coffee.

They have wifi so I'm hanging out in the restaurant and doing some recharghing and logistics. I'm going to set up camp and grab a shower and then come back tonight for dinner. I'm thinking the pan seared salmon.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.87127%2C-78.91879

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