2019 AT Thru Hike: Week 5 - Waynesboro to Front Royal VA

Week 5 of my Appalachian Trail Thru Hike

This week I'm in Shenandoah National Park. Waynesboro is the southern gateway and Front Royal is the northern gateway. The southern half of the park wasn't particularly pretty or interesting, but the northern part is. We're enjoying the camp stores, waysides, and lodges.

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Day 32

Time: Sat, 4 May 2019 15:24:25 -0400

Location: Devil's Backbone Brewpub NoBo Mile 844.6 of Appalachian Trail

Had a nice day yesterday at Devil's Backbone Brewery. Johnny Walker and Muffit showed up in the late afternoon. Dawn/Storm Trooper arrived in the early evening. We all ate dinner together and swapped stories. It's so nice here. A large bachelorette party was seated next to us. We were all a little taken aback by the noise level after being in the woods.

Johnny Walker and Muffit are retired police officers from Watkins Glen New York. They RV all over when they're not on the AT. Storm Trooper is from St Louis. She trains horses and is a dive master who has been to many exotic places. She's in the process of restoring an old Air Stream RV.

The campground was more noisy than we're used to. Some teen lost it about 4am shouting obscenities and obviously agitated. What's the camp host doing?

It rained overnight but cleared by morning. Johnny Walker, Muffit, and I enjoyed the hearty $5 hiker breakfast. They offered all kinds of supplies to us and gave us a cool exclusive thru hiker t-shirt.

Johnny Walker and Muffit took the 9am'sh shuttle back to the trail. Storm Trooper eventually joined me in the breakfast cabin. We talked trail talk and she was looking forward to watching the Kentucky Derby in the afternoon. We're both zeroing here today. 

Captain showed up about 11:30. We haven't seen each other in a couple weeks. He gets off the trail every month or so to hang with his young kids and then does huge miles to catch back up. He's staying on this time until the Delaware Water Gap.

Several people engaged us over the course of the morning and asked a lot of questions about thru hiking.

Several people were dressed up for Star Wars Day (May the 4th be with you). I had lunch at the bar like yesterday. I'm getting to know those guys well. Barbecue sandwich, fries, baked beans, slaw, Vienna Lager, Danzig Porter, banana pudding, and coffee.

I iced my boo boos. Being a Saturday, the place was hopping. I saw Moss and Starcrunch, the hikers who gave us trail magic last week, along with Starcrunch's parents. Boot, who I met at Four Pines last week just showed up. So far it's me, Boot, Storm Trooper, Moss, and Starcrunch at the thru hiker campground tonight. 

It's supposed to rain tonight and tomorrow. 19 miles to Waynesboro.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=37.8705%2C-78.92279

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Day 33

Time: Sun, 5 May 2019 21:22:06 -0400

Location: Stanimals Hostel NoBo Mile 864.2 of Appalachian Trail

I spent last night at the Devil's Backbone Brewery. It was me, Moss, Starcrunch, their dog, Storm Trooper, Boot, and Rugs.

Rugs got there in the late afternoon and setup next to me. He's a recently retired Mechanical Engineer from Waco, Tx. His company did all kinds of creative aerospace related modifications to existing aircraft like putting a huge telescope into a giant airplane. I told him about Derek being a mechanical engineer at GeorgIa Tech and he was impressed. He said they hired a girl from Georgia Tech recently and they weren't sure about her GPA being below 3.0 initially, but he talked about how impressed and happy they are with her.

Rugs and I walked over to the restaurant. It was really hopping with over an hour wait. We grabbed a couple seats at the bar. Moss was at the bar as well. Good food, good drink, and good conversation.

It rained all night and cleared as morning broke. We all packed up and walked up to the breakfast cabin for the hiker breakfast. The shuttle arrived just before 9 and took us 5 miles back to the trail.

It was cool and foggy to start with lots of rock scrambling. A light rain fell most of the morning and early afternoon. Eventually we got past the rocks to some nice smooth trail. There were more than the usual number of fallen trees on this section.

We did 19 miles to Waynesboro, the gateway to Shenandoah National Park. We all emerged from the trail pretty close together and took in the convergence of the interstate, Blue Ridge Parkway, and Skyline drive into the park.

I walked down the popcorn truck to wait for my shuttle to Stanimals Hostel. They were all going to the Quality Inn.

There was a young girl also waiting for the Stanimals shuttle. Her name is Triple Knot. We talked about trail stuff while we ate some popcorn and waited.

Captain, Johnny Walker, and Muffit were at Stanimals when we arrived. It was good to see them. I got cleaned up and made a resupply plan.

There were 8-10 other hikers also. There are a couple guys here from Quebec and Johnny Walker and Muffit talked with them about a snowmobile trip they had taken up there and how friendly everyone was.

Master Key from South Korea is doing the AT to complete a triple crown. He started March 31 and is already this far. He's doing over 30 miles a day.

We're all ready for the trail to flatten out and enjoy the restaurant waysides through Shenandoah.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=38.07222%2C-78.899

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Day 34

Time: Tue, 7 May 2019 06:54:02 -0400

Location: Blackrock Hut mile 884.2 (Northbound) of the Appalachian Trail

Had a nice time at Stanimals Hostel in Waynesboro. Woke up early while Glen the caretaker made pancakes and frittatas. Had some nice conversations around breakfast with Johnny Walker, Muffit, Captain, Master Key, and Katz.

Most people went back to the trail early, but I hung around and went to the Walmart Market nearby and did a resupply. We're all a little unsure about the waysides being open in Shenandoah National Park, so we're packing enough food in case they're not. Sparky the Swiss guy was staying nearby and came over to take the Stanimals shuttle back to the trail. 

I took a late shuttle with Triple Knot and Katz who had to go to the post office and the outfitter. We had a fun time joking around with Adam (Stanimal) while he drove us around.

I saw the two English kids in the outfitter store and enjoyed catching up with them. I also saw a kid I had last seen at Angels Rest in Pearisburg. I decided to get some new Chacos. Same Z Cloud model. Same color.

We got back to the trail about 11:30. I did about 21 miles to the Blackrock Hut shelter. The terrain was rocky and scrub brush to start. My pack felt so light coming into town, but not so much after the resupply.

Once the trail reached Shenandoah it flattened out and got prettier. Not many views but pleasant.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=38.21313%2C-78.74594

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Day 35

Time: Tue, 7 May 2019 18:51:09 -0400

Location: Pinefield Hut NoBo Mile 897.6 of Appalachian Trail

Got in late to Blackrock Hut last night. Another kid came in an hour after me. It was me, him, a young guy who was at Stanimals, and a couple section hikers from Texas. Sparky was camping nearby. Johnny Walker and Muffit camped a few miles before the shelter.

Shenandoah is not as flat as I thought it would be. It's not very pretty and not particularly interesting.

I tried to go to the Loft Mountain Campstore, but it was closed. I took a .5 mile detour to go to the Loft Mountain Wayside and had a cheeseburger, beer, and blackberry ice cream.

I saw Johnny Walker and Muffit and decided to stop at the Pinefield Hut after 13 miles. My wayside detour derailed my 20 mile plan.

Lots of new people here tonight. Reboot and Karaoke  filled us in on a bunch of drama from tramilies just behind us.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=38.29054%2C-78.64573

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Day 36

Time: Wed, 8 May 2019 19:53:12 -0400

Location: Bearfence Mountain But NoBo Mile 918.2 of Appalachian Trail

Stayed at the Pinefield Hut last night. The shelter was full and plenty of tents and hammocks. Good group. Lots of conversation. Reboot gave us a soap opera overview of her tramily drama. Two section hikers from Alabama were fun. One was a circuit Court judge and swapped stories with the retired Galveston police Captain. The police Captain is hiking with his friend from Texas who is a retired Transocean ship Captain. They just started their thru hike.

Another young couple at the shelter also just started.

I stopped at the first shelter after about 9 miles for an early lunch. The young couple arrived and said they were worn out and stopping for the day. They joked about quitting and how they can't go back to their house because they rented it out. He's a mechanical engineer and she just finished her accounting degree. They asked about kids.

Passed Johnny Walker and Muffit. Karaoke and I passed each other a couple times. Found a bag someone left at one of the markers with trailmix and oatmeal and chocolate chips. We joked how we'll eat anything anyone leaves.

Saw my first bear. He scampered away from the trail about 25 yards and turned around to look at me, made a snorting sound and then scampered away.

Yesterday I felt sluggish in the heat and from taking a pretty big detour down to the wayside. I stopped after a relatively short day and I felt much better today.

I was looking forward to the Lewis Campground Store all day. It was 19 miles from the hut we started from and our destination hut was only another 1.5 away.

I got to the camp store about 4:30 and stayed until they closed at 6. Karaoke, Smootz, and Greg also stopped. We swapped stories and updates on hikers we've seen. The ladies that run the store were so nice and really had fun with us. I had a couple beers, a couple sandwiches, a couple boiled eggs, a banana, coffee, a chocolate muffin, and p a payday. I was so happy.

It was a breeze to the shelter. There was a good group there and a section hiker started a fire. My first fire. Thru Hikers don't have the energy to start fires.

Karaoke has two boys 21 and 18. One of them goes to Full Sail University, which is a school Adam is interested in.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=38.44424%2C-78.47041

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Day 37

Time: Thu, 9 May 2019 17:51:00 -0400

Location: Rock Spring Hut NoBo Mile 929.6 of Appalachian Trail

Stayed at the Bearfence Mountain Hut last night with a good group. One guy is doing his last shakedown hike with his dad before starting his thru hike at Springer Mountain in a week or so. Another guy just started a thru hike with his daughter and realizes they're not ready. Their tent rainfly was compromised last night and their stuff got all wet.

We hashed out a loose plan to go to the Skyland Resort 16 miles away for lunch. I stopped by the Big Meadows Lodge after 8 miles. It was a nice place. The restaurant had just opened for the season the previous day. I had a steak sandwich, root beer, cinnamon roll, and several cups of coffee. I used their WiFi to do some logistics. I talked with a girl Alex who was hiking southbound. We talked about what brought us to the trail, life, etc. Her parents are physicists and she's worked in the peace corps. She recently completed treatment for leukemia and, despite her family's worries, is out on the trail.

The lady running the coffee stand started a thru hike in March, but got off at Neels Gap because she wasn't physically ready. She's going to work on her conditioning and try again next year.

I was feeling good and heading for Skyline Resort when my left quad locked up, just like my right one did last week. I nursed it and slowly made my way to the next hut. Only 11.5 miles today. I'm ready to boogie, but my body isn't.

Greg, who was at Stanimals, was at the shelter. He also had stopped at Big Meadows and had a huge lunch and didn't feel like going farther.

Lightweight stopped by. He thru hiked in 1998. He's retiring from the Air Force soon and is in the area for work. His dad is staying at the lodge. He has a 12 and 13 year old and his family is preparing to hike half the trail next year. We talked about the trail, kids, life, etc.

Lonestar showed up also.

Hopefully my body will cooperate tomorrow and I can it least make it 5 miles to Skyland Resort.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=38.55366%2C-78.40849

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Day 38
Time: Fri, 10 May 2019 19:30:22 -0400

Location: Skyland Resort NoBo Mile 934.2 of Appalachian Trail

Spent last night at Rock Spring Hut when my left leg locked up after a nice morning at Big Meadows Lodge. It was me, Greg, Lightweight, Lonestar, Rugs, and a kid that came in after dark and left at dawn.

It was nice to see Rugs and catch up. He brought a big can of Yeungling from the Lewis Campground Store. It was nice meeting Lonestar.

Made my way slowly 5 miles to the Skyland Resort. My left leg was agitated, but didn't lock up. I decided to get a room and rest my leg. I hung out in the lobby, ate a steak sandwich and cinnamon roll and then sat with Rugs, Lonestar, and Moss while they ate the breakfast buffet. I'm getting the breakfast buffet tomorrow.

Johnny Walker and Muffit came in, as well Lightweight, and Slip N Slide. Lightweight bought us all She Crab Soup. It was delicious. We all hung out drank coffee and talked trail talk.

I got a beer at the bar with Slip N Slide while my room was getting ready. Mike, a day hiker, engaged me and we talked about the trail and life.

The resort started hopping. Lot of people here for Mother's Day weekend.

I got a basic cabin with no AC or TV. It's pleasantly rustic. I spent a long time hand washing all my stuff and hanging it on a line I strung. I also showered. It felt nice to be clean and have my gear clean.

I walked up to the lodge for dinner. I hung with Johnny Walker and Muffit at the bar. They paid for my beer. I had a couple of big IPA's, She Crab Soup, and Sweet Potato Putine. It was all very good.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=38.59295%2C-78.38035

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Day 39
Time: Sat, 11 May 2019 20:02:31 -0400

Location: Byrds Nest #3 Hut mile 940.6 (Northbound) of the Appalachian Trail

Spent last night at the Ash Cabin at the Skyland Resort. There were lots of families there for Mother's Day. All the little kids reminded me of when we had little kids and they got so excited to stay in a "cabinet".

I had lots to eat at the breakfast buffet. I cleaned my clothes and my gear and babied my sore left quad. I hung out in ound resort lobby all day, drank coffee, and people watched all day while I rested my leg.

I had a late lunch with She Crab Soup and a big IPA and packed out a steak sandwich. I eventually left the comfort of the resort and made it 6 miles to the first shelter.

There a father and daughter from Pennsylvania doing some weekend hiking. A Sobo you tuber named Seraphim/Lost and Found, Storm Trooper, Boomer, Ziplock, and Swag.

Foggy, wet, and cool tonight. Lots of rain tomorrow.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=38.63435%2C-78.32375

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Day 40
Time: Sun, 12 May 2019 20:02:31 -0400

Location: Gravel Springs Hut mile 958.1 (Northbound) of the Appalachian Trail

Happy Mother's Day♥️

Spent last night at Byrds Nest #3 Hut with a father and daughter (Bear Spray because she accidentally sprayed herself) from Pennsylvania, Lost and Found, Swagman, Storm Trooper, Boomer, and Ziplock. 

A big bear curiously looked us over from about 30 yards while we ate breakfast around the picnic table in front of the shelter. 

Walked 12 miles to the Elkwallow Wayside for lunch. 11 of the miles were pain free but my left quad tightened up again for the last mile. We were all looking forward to the wayside, but there was no inside seating and we had to eat under an awning next to the bathrooms. I had a salad, meatball sub, blackberry shake, and coffee. The food was appreciated but the staff was not friendly. We were all cold and wet. Boomer, Storm Trooper, and Ziplock were going to get a hotel in Luray.

Saw Johnny Walker, Muffit, and Ginger Goat slackpacking south. They were staying at the hostel in Luray.

Hiked with Swagman. He's Australian but lives in Michigan now. He got pneumonia and a bad ankle sprain and had to get off last year. He just got back on last week and is trying to get to Bennington Vermont this time.

We hiked another 6 miles after the wayside to Gravel Springs Hut. Carl and Jeff the guys from Galveston were there. Genesee a kid from Genesee NY was there with his bike. He had biked in from Harper's Ferry and was trying to get to Trail Days in Damascus. A father and son section hiking south got in late. They were cold, wet, and miserable. Genesee helped them start a fire to get warm.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=38.63435%2C-78.32375

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Day 41
Time: Mon, 13 May 2019 21:21:38 -0400

Location: Mountain Home Cabin Front Royal VA NoBo Mile 971.8 of Appalachian Trail

Stayed last night at Gravel Springs Hut in Shenandoah National Park. Me, Swag man from Michigan, Carl and Jeff from Galveston, Genesee the bike packer from New York, and a father and son section hiking south who came in late, miserable, and soaked from the rain.

We did 14 miles in the rain to Mountain Home Cabin Hostel in Front Royal. It's me, Swagman, Jeff, Carl, Boot, Johnny Walker, Muffit, and Ginger Goat.

We cleaned up and did laundry and then got shuttled into Front Royal by Scott the super nice owner. We went to a couple of outfitters, the drug store, and the grocery store for resupply.

We went to PaveMint, a converted gas station, and had a bunch of $2 happy hour brisket tacos and beer. The rain cleared so we sat outside. It was me, Swagman, Boot, and Ginger Goat. It was nice.

We walked to the microbrewery and had another beer while we waited for Scott to come and shuttle us back to the hostel.

I called Helen and caught up on Derek's hike in the Smokies and Mother's Day.

I'm planning on zeroing here tomorrow.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=38.87523%2C-78.14519

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