2019 AT Thru Hike: Week 9 - Delaware Water Gap PA to Vernon NJ

Week 9 of my AT Thru Hike took me out of Pennsylvania and almost through New Jersey and into New York. Helen and I had such a good time together. I really miss her.

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Day 63

Time: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 22:17:35 -0400

Location: Delaware Water Gap Mile 1295 of Appalachian Trail

Helen and I stayed at the Stroudsmoor Country Inn again last night. We had some coffee and muffins and walked around while we waited for the dining room to open at 8. 

Breakfast was a step above the usual hotel breakfast with full table service. We had pancakes, eggs, bacon, and toast. It was all really good.

We drove back to Wind Gap where I got back on the trail. It was rocks, rocks, rocks.

I remembered to wrap my right ankle today. I strained a tendon that runs behind my ankle bone on the inside of my leg while I was making that big climb out of Lehigh Gap a couple days ago. I strain that tendon from time to time in real life too. I think it has to do with the messed up mechanics of my right foot.

The lyrics of my stream of consciousness songs for the past few days have been mostly obscenities about needing my body to just work, f'ing Pennsylvania, and the mother f'ing rocks. I try to mix up the combinations. There's nobody around so I can sing most of the time.

Helen drove ahead to Delaware Water Gap to scout up the pick up location. She did some hiking across the river on the New Jersey side. She said it was really pretty and she made some new friends. She walked some with an older retired guy and he told her about the area and showed her where I was across the river. He loved what Helen and I are doing and talked about Jack Kerouac's On The Road and just wanting to be out seeing things.

Just before Delaware Water Gap the trail exited the rocks and followed some sort of unpaved access path. That's happened before but usually for a short distance before throwing us back into the rocks. This time we followed the nice path for a couple miles. It was glorious. I joked with Helen that it was my favorite section on the whole AT. The woods that the trail goes through in Pennsylvania are pleasant and it would be rather nice if it wasn't for the relentless sharp rocks.

There were some nice views of the valley below as the trail approached Delaware Water Gap. The trail descended through rhodendrons and crossed streams and small waterfalls.

Helen was waiting for me. We relaxed and caught up on our day while I ate and drank beer. It's a good system.

We drove back towards the Stroudsmoor Country Inn and stopped by their bakery location nearby. It was a cool little bakery. They had so many enticing things and beautiful displays. We got some chocolate chip banana loaf and some cherry vanilla loaf. They were delicious.

We relaxed and got cleaned up and then went to dinner in the dining room. There were several other couples but the place can hold a lot of people so it feels pleasantly uncrowded.

They have a salad bar with all kinds of fancy options. It was definitely a step above. The mushroom soup was delicious. Helen's chicken francese was just ok but my salmon was excellent. I took some coffee back to the room to have with the bread we got from the bakery. Helen was too stuffed.

We talked about going to the pool and hot tub but were too tired.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=40.96671%2C-75.20445

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Day 64

Time: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 19:13:10 -0400

Location: Mohican Outdoor Center NoBo mile 1306.0 of Appalachian Trail

Helen and I spent last night at the Stroudsmoor Country Inn. We had another nice breakfast in the dining room and then checked out and drove to Delaware Water Gap where I got back on the trail.

The trail walked along I-80 and over the Delaware River where we crossed into New Jersey. I was glad to have Pennsylvania and all its rocks and mud behind me.

Helen met me and walked with me some on part of the trail she had walked the day before. We saw Just John and talked with him. Helen met a lady at the rest stop who was starting her thru hike today. She was only going 5 miles.

The trail was nice as it wound through the Delaware Water Gap recreation area. There were plenty of rocks and even Pennsylvania style rocks in some places, just not every step all day long. 

The trail wound along ridges through the blooming Mountain Laurel. There were even deep crater lakes. It was really pretty.

Helen picked up some beer and other supplies and then met me at the Mohican Outdoor Center. She saw Shawn and they chit chatted.

Scooch's family is from Atlantic City and they drove over to do trail magic. We visited with them and enjoyed their hospitality. Scooch and Paris are in a band called Tie Goes To The The Runner.  They're on You Tube and Scooch also has a channel called CJ Hikes.

I had planned to hike on but lost my momentum and decided to stay at the Mohican Outdoor Center. They were really nice. We had some yummy sandwiches.from the grill and talked with some other thru hikers named Fast Eddie, Tijajuana, and another older guy who was pretty deaf but still tried to engage people. He likes to fish and caught said he's caught all kinds of fish along the trail. He caught a bunch yesterday and pulled up a snake taking a bite out of one of the fish on his stringer.

We stayed in the Black Oak Lodge which is really a bunkhouse with Fast Eddie and Tijajuana. Tijuana is a recently retired middle school math teacher from Connecticut. We had fun talking about education. He said he likes to look at his watch during the day and think about what his co-workers are doing. He loves Sunday nights and Monday mornings now.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=41.03503%2C-75.00153

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Day 65

Time: Thu, 6 Jun 2019 22:40:22 -0400

Location: Culver's Gap NoBo Mile 1324  of Appalachian Trail

Helen and I stayed at the Mohican Outdoor Center last night with Tijuana and Fast Eddie. Tijuana is a recently retired middle school teacher and Fast Eddie is a recently retired family doctor.

We laid two bunk mattresses on the floor of one of the bunk rooms and slept on them. We had some muffins we brought from the Country Inn and some Trader Joe's instant coffee and then walked up the outdoor center main building to use the WiFi.

The older hard of hearing hiker was eating the pre-reserved breakfast. It looked really good. You have to let them know the night before and it costs $13. We wished we had done it.

The old hiker said he was going to rent a kayak and go fishing and that he was done hiking the AT this year. He started last year, did a big section this year, and was going to finish next year.

We also talked with two young French Canadian girls who were camping at the center. They were making their way home after going to Key West. They have done a number of big trips together including a multi week canoe trip in a remote part of Canada. They were cute and the French language always sounds so pleasant.

I did 18 miles from the Mohican Outdoor Center to Culver's Gap. The trail there travels through the Delaware Water Gap recreation area. It's really pretty with varied terrain. The mountain laurel are blooming all over. There are pretty lakes and hemlock forests and ridge views.

Helen hiked on the trails around the outdoor center and saw Sparky and some other hikers. She said she liked the mountain laurel and started to go up the fire tower but it seemed a little creaky.

At the pickup we saw Shawn, Tijajuana, and the two section hikers we saw a couple of days ago. One is from Massachusetts and the other from New Orleans. They met in the Marines when they were young and get together every year to hike sections of the AT.

Helen got a couple yummy sandwiches from the Mohican Outdoor Center and we ate them and caught up on our day.

We drove north and got a room at the High Point Motel near High Point State Park. It's a cute older motel that's been nicely maintened. There's a casual seating area out front where people gather. We sat and talked and petted a nice dog named Batman. It was a pleasant evening.

We went to the Elias House for a late dinner and some pie and ice cream.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=41.29205%2C-74.65434

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Day 66

Time: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 20:25:12 -0400

Location: High Point Motel Mile 1337.7 of Appalachian Trail

It's Helen's birthday today. I took the day off from the trail. She'll be heading back home tomorrow.

We stayed at the High Point Motel last night and hung out with the crew in the morning and chatted and drank coffee.

It's an interesting place. The owner seems to collect misfits. There are a few permanent workers/friends that live in some of the motel rooms. They were fun.

The owner, Mike, said he thru hiked in1981. He said they made the trail harder since then because the Europeans said the trail was too easy. He had backpacked around Alaska for a year, lived with Creek Indians in Canada, and worked as a guide hunting Mountain Lions. His family owned a 70 acre farm behind the motel and in the 80's the hotel was going to be foreclosed. He returned and bought the hotel.

We went to Dingmans Falls. It was really pretty with lots of rhodendron and hemlock trees.

We went to several stores looking for electrolyte tablets or powder and saw some cute places.

We drove to High Point State Park and did some walking around and an easy trail.

We went to Village Pizza for dinner and Elias Cole for dessert. We ordered 4 pieces of pie: strawberry rhubarb, apple, coconut cream, and lemon meringue. The waitress looked at us funny and Helen told her that I was hiking.

It was a nice honey day.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=41.29208%2C-74.65428

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Day 67

Time: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 21:18:50 -0400

Location: High Point Shelter Mile 1339.7 of Appalachian Trail

Helen and I spent last night at the High Point Motel again. We had early morning coffee with Denise and the helper guy that lives there. They're funny. We petted Denise's dog Batman.

We had breakfast at Elias Cole. We had a waffle with fresh strawberries and cream and a ham and egg and cheese sandwich on a fresh baked roll. It was delicious and they were fun.

We got cleaned up and packed up and were melancholy because Helen was heading back to Atlanta. We talked about how much fun we've had. It was really nice.

Helen dropped me at Culver's Gap. I got back on the trail and she headed home. It was like when I started my hike in Damascus two months ago and we had to part ways. It's hard.

Thankfully the weather was nice. It would have been tough to handle parting and bad weather.

I hiked through High Point State Park and passed some of the spots Helen and I visited. It was just like parting in Damascus where I hiked past spots we had visited.

I hiked 15 miles to the High Point Shelter. I stopped by the park headquarters and got a complimentary Pepsi they give to thru hikers. I chatted with Grateful. She's from Maine and is finishing a thru hike she started last year.

I switched poles with Helen since mine are pretty beat up and then snapped the lower section on one of the poles towards the end of the day.

There were a couple of section hikers and a ridge runner at the shelter when I arrived and then Dairy King/Leggs showed up. I haven't seen him in weeks. He got really sick in Waynesboro and had to go back home to New York for a couple weeks. He said Sneak Attack fell and had to go back home to Michigan for awhile, but she's back and a little behind us. A nice young girl thru hiker named Splat showed up also. We all had dinner and swapped stories.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=41.31558%2C-74.65671

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Day 68

Time: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 20:44:52 -0400

Location: Wawayanda Shelter Mile 1363.7 of Appalachian Trail

Spent last night at the High Point Shelter with a couple nice section hikers, a ridge runner who thru hiked a few years ago as Caveman, Dairy King, and Splat.

Didn't sleep very well on the air mattress. I got used to real mattresses. I got up about 5:30 and was on the trail by 7. 

There was a shelter at 12 miles and one at 24. 12 was too short so that meant I had a long day ahead of me.

The weather was clear but warm. I like to get 10 or 12 miles before I stop. It feels good to get momentum.

The trail passed by a marshy wildlife refuge that was pretty and there was a bit long boardwalk through another natural area. There were lots of day hikers out enjoying a pretty Sunday.

Stopped at 19 miles and had a couple hot dogs at a roadside stand with Paris and Sela.

Paris, Thigh Gap, and I walked across the street to Heavenly Farms and got some ice cream, donuts, and coffee.

I wasted time trying to fix my broken hiking pole and still had 5 miles to the shelter.

It was a big climb up to the shelter. In fact, there were a lot of climbs today. 24 miles in warm weather, with lots of climbs, a full pack, and limited water: welcome back slackpaker.

It's hard to shake the melancholy of Helen leaving. We had such a great time.

I saw Yvette on the trail. She's still plugging along, but skipping over big sections. She and Grateful were headed to the Alpine Motel.

I saw TJ Tijuana and we caught up. He said he really enjoyed meeting Helen. I saw Karaoke also. He had gotten off trail for a week when his grandmother died. He spent the Memorial Day weekend in Hershey being pampered with his wife. Parris, Thigh Gap, and Dairy King are also tenting around the shelter tonight.

I heard Pork Chop and his group are just behind us.

Lots of rain and storms tomorrow.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=41.18752%2C-74.39008

Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app

Day 69

Time: Mon, 10 Jun 2019 15:33:16 -0400

Location: Wildcat Shelter Mile 1375.9 of Appalachian Trail

Stayed at the Wawayanda Shelter last night. It was nice to catch up with TJ/Tijuana and Karaoke.

Everyone is checking the weather and expecting a lot of rain. We did 10 miles to the Bellvale Farm Creamery. There were several of us thru hikers waiting for them to open at noon. Most of us got multiple things. I got a big banana split and a cone with honey lavender. A few hikers in the hiker log mentioned the honey lavender and it was good. It was me, TJ, Saleh, Dairy King, Papa Smurf, Thigh Gap, and Karaoke.

There was a lot of climbs the first 10 miles as well as ridge walks. It was fun but tough.

The rain started to fall while we were eating ice cream and we weren't looking forward to getting out in it. We were all unsure about where to stop for the day. The shelters are far apart and there aren't any campsites published in Guthook.

I fell 3 times on the first section of ridge walks after the creamery and I was trying to be super careful. Parris said he fell 3 times also. My sandals grip the rocks well when the rocks are dry, but not when the rocks are wet.

I stopped at the Wildcat Shelter after a couple miles and called it a day. Rain is expected until 7am tomorrow.

Parris and Takoma from the shelter last night also stopped. Ziplock got back on the trail today and is waiting for Boomer and Storm Trooper. He is expecting them to get to this shelter tonight. It will be tough in this rain over those rocks.

Sparky showed up and said he fell 4 times. Boomer and Dead Pool showed up late and wet. Storm Trooper and Pork Chop got a hotel. They had both fallen hard.

Hoping for a drier day tomorrow.

Love you ❤️ Miss you 😘

Google Maps link to my location: http://maps.google.com/maps?z=14&t=m&q=41.26823%2C-74.26762

Sent from the Guthook's AT Guide app